Worth the wait

Somethings are worth the wait but I was wondering how long I'd have to wait? I had booked my ticket, for the bus, back to China. Xiamen to be exact. There I was standing in a car park, waiting for a bus, wondering if it would ever turn up. Be there 20 mins early. That's what the ticket said. So at 7.10 am, I'm standing with bags by my side, in the car park of the coliseum, waiting. At 7.30 there was no bus and certainly no other passengers. MMm. I was starting to wonder if this was actually my point of rendezvous. The only other person around was a lady ushering locals on to the correct local buses and screaming at the bus drivers to get on their way. As I approached her, I wondering if this was going to be one of those usual arm waving charades, that end in me being totally confused and less aware of what was happening. My fears were correct. She didn't speak a bit of English and my Mandarin book didn't help a bit. She spoke Cantonese! Ok. Sit here and panic in silence. This was my only option at this point.
Moments later, scary screaming lady tore the ticket from my hand, produced a mobile phone and proceeded to ring the company and find my bus. After a few more hand gestures and much pointing at ones watch, I realized the bus would be here soon and was running a little late. About half an hour later all of screaming lady's passengers and buses accounted for, she was preparing to disappear. Still no bus for me! Again she returns looking slightly concerned for my safety and the where abouts of my noble steed. Again producing a mobile, she calls the company, screams in to the receiver, AHuh, Ahuh, Ahuh! Producing a pen and paper she writes down that they will be here in an hour. An hour! This is meant to be civilized land and yet they forgot to get me and now are turning around and coming back for me!
Right on the hour, a bus screams in to the car park, throws me aboard and screeches off in to peak hour traffic, at a manic pace.
After a white nuckled and stressful trip, we finally arrive at a super deluxe bus. Everyone on board looking extremely calm, considering they've been sitting here waiting for the foreign passenger to arrive. Whilst I've had a roller coaster trip, of near misses and neck breaking swerves. I was glad to be sitting in a luxury, leather seated, well air conditioned paradise. Even the boarder crossing wasn't as stressful as they usually are. I even had lunch included. This was such a change to the usual transport of boarder crossings, I was actually dreading getting of this little slice of paradise!

Hongkong- Bright lights

After the serenity of Zhu Hai and a relaxing boat trip, Hongkong seemed a hideous contrast. The place is full of bright lights, designer shopping malls, immigrants and choking pollution. Double Decker buses and taxis rule the streets and the Star Ferry and large creator ships rule the harbor. The place is alive with people and the city never seems to sleep.
I arrived after a short boat ride from Mainland China, to Hongkong Customs. I hand over my passport and there it starts. It has to be the only place that has wanted to see my exsit stamp and previous visa. I knew this was going to cause some problems as my Visa for China was in my Italian passport and I was arriving on my Australian. Just to confuse the hell out of you and the authorities involved. So, out I bring the Italian passport and here started the confusion. You see, the Italians believe that your maiden name is always your first and only last name...So my passport is Cox not Rayment. Where as my passport for Australia is Rayment. After I explained married and maiden names, I then had to explain the gift of having two passports and why I was traveling on separate passports in the first place. After much explaining and the feeling of the queue behind me growing more and more adjitated, I was aloud to proceed in to the hollowed city of Hongkong.
It was stifling hot compared to China and I could only say it was from the fog of pollution the covered the city. I trundled through the streets with my ever growing ensemble of bags, looking for the famous Chunking Mansions. The only affordable backpacker accommodation in all of HK's districts. Kowloon is famous for it's less than wonderful characters and housing facilities. The Chunking Mansions house long term migrants from all over the world, along with impoverished travelers. I eventually arrive in front of the, not so salubrious, Mansions to an onslaught of touts and hawkers. Selling copy watches, fake Loui Vitton hangbags and trying to lure you to their promised "Luxury Accommodation". I had the foresight to book ahead and was well warned not to tell anyone about my booking in the foyer. They are renowned for saying they are from the hotel, taking you to another place and helping you part with your money. All before you realized you were scammed. Considering these days, I trust no one who comes up to me on the streets selling me a promised land, it was easy for me to avoid any person who approached me.
The foyer to the Mansions looked more like a third world terrorist camp, than a main lobby for hotels. There were dark skinned men, Muslim men in traditional dress, Indian men flogging off cheap copy goods and tailors trying to sell suits to the tourists. I seriously started to worry about my choice of accommodation.
A security guard helped us to orderly line up and board the lift and after a great deal of time, I reached level 3. I checked in and was shown to a less then great room and informed I was going to joined by two others. In this shoe box? I had a bed the size of a camp stretcher and the other bed was no bigger than a king single...And that's it. No other room to move. We didn't even have a key to lock the door. Apparently a security camera was stragtegically placed near our door. I thought that this will only do us good, at a later date, to be able to watch the robber leaving with our bags. My other concern was who was I going top be sharing an unsecured room with....Hopefully not one of the unsavoury characters from the foyer?
After a little walk around the city and picking up my post from the GPO, I headed for a coffee break..Yep. Starbucks! When in an alien city, a little familiarity can go a long way. I was lucky enough top be joined by three more mature American gentleman, who were interested in why I was visiting the great Hongkong. After divulging my story and all my travel secrets, these guys were well impressed and I had a captive audience for the remainder of the afternoon. Company I was glad to have. By the time the sun came down, I knew that I should head back to the hostel, to see what delights were install for me there. On arrival I was wondering who was going to be behind door number 6? I was pleasantly surprised to find two young English guys, who were just as unimpressed with the accommodation as I was. This called for a beer. So we spent the rest of the evening sitting in a pub, drinking beer and joking about filling out police reports before a good night sleep. Lucky for us there was just a good night sleep ahead of us and no police reports to be had. Our stuff was safe!
The following few days went on a blur of lights, traffic and markets. Shopping is the main thing that Hongkong offers. Not my bag of lollies that's for sure. The one good thing was I was moved to the real dorm the following day. A much better place, with a door that locked and a bed that was slightly larger....And a few characters for room mates. An English girl living in Sydney, who never shut up. Thankfully she left the next day. A Japanese boy who never slept and constantly sat at his computer and made a horrendous amount of noise. Therefore no one slept. An Australian girl who spends her time traveling the world working in a circus. A few Chinese, who stayed one night and left the next.
Hongkong was not exactly the Mecca I had expected or the place that people had said it to be. It was, again, another big city. I tried my hand at shopping for some clothes, only to be insulted by a shop keeper. "Next time come back to Asia skinny, you fat slob." I think they were her words.
All in all, it was not all that I had hoped it to be, but maybe I had expected a little sanity compared to China. What I found was an expensive city, with it's main sights, it's expensive designer shops. Maybe in better company I would have fallen in love with it, like so many others have?

Off to Zhu Hai

After a few days in Yango Shuo， shopping，eating Western Delights （Even an Ａussie pie）and resting，I decided to go to Zhu Hai to see a friend of my brothers。I was happy to know that I could go direct， instead of the converluted way I had imagined。So I booked a night bus and off I went。 The night bus was the usual disaster， smoking， spitting but with the added Chicken！ I’m serious。I could hear clucking and other bird related noises， when I realised the man in the sleeper bed in front of me，had a box。In the box was an assortment of little birds and a relatively small chicken。 No wonder there is Bird Flu and Sars rampet in Asia， when your travel companion is a a bloody Chook！After a long， carsonagenic and clucky trip I arrived in Zhu Hai， jumped in a taxi， flashed him the directions， in Chinese and arrived at a rather posh hotel。 Um。。。。Some mistake？ I booked a hostel！ Lucky for me the hostel is situated in the grounds of a very posh hotel indeed。 My dorm room had a decent bathroom （Western Loo and all）TV and other mod-cons I have been living with out。 The only problem is that the restaurant and other facilities only cater for the richer of guests。After locating a bus to take me in to the real world，located a phone and called my Brother for his Birthday （NO easy feat I tell you！） I actually found some where to get some food。
Called Melanie and arranged to meet at the hotel in half an hour。 Half an Hour！！！ I had to get back to the hotel and look some what presentable。 I hadn‘t showered or anything。 As I arrived to the hotel a taxi zipped passed containing a woman who looked very French。 This could only be my guest。 I ran in to the lobby， ran to the Loo， grabbed a face cloth， washed face， mitts and pitts and went to the loo。 Tradgedy。。。My zip broke on my jeans。 Knowing that my guest would be wondering aimlessly in the foyer， I struggled with my jeans until I fixed my zip。。。Just enough to stay together。
She looked like a typical French beauty， all in white and I looked like a typical backpacker slob！ Oh well。 After our strange introduction and first meeting， we boarded a bus and went to the heart of the shopping area in Zhu Hai。 Right on the boarder of Macau。Here we feasted on local dishes， shopped the undeground mall and had a good old girlie day together。 Melanie was wondeful and she really must be a special person。 She’s been living in China for almost 12 years！The woman must be made of steel。 Anyway the day ended rather quick。。。she jumped on a bus and was off。All before I got to press click on the camera！

Up Up and Away

I arrived in Yang Shuo and treated myself to something I‘ve always wanted to do but could never afford to do back home。。。Hot Air Ballooning！
Early in the morning I trundled off to the travel office before the sun peered over the mountains。 I was picked up by a spritely young Lady （who possibly can be at that hour？）put in to a car and driven to another hotel， to pick up the other people who would be flying with me。 This hotel was flash and I instantly knew these guys were not going to be of the backpacker variety。 I mean it actually had western styled toilets。Of course，I took advantage of that！ My other two flying companions were an enormous sized， German couple。 They tried to squeeze in the back with me but it was impossible。 After a switch with the wee Chinese girl and humungous man， we set off for our balloon。Not to be mean but I was a little worried about us being able to leave the ground safely！ Especially when I saw the size of the little basket。 I hopped in first ensuring that I was going to have a good view and a little space to myself。 Then hoped in the Germans and I was squwished against one of the poles of the baskets harness。 There was no room to move and certainly， no where to go。 This was a bit of a comfort as I thought， if there was room to move， there was room to fall。 Since the basket came to my waist， I was happy to be a little confined in movement。 Slowly the balloon filled with air and we moved up up and up。 It was so smooth that I didn’t actually feel as though we had left the ground。 I could see the other balloons up in the further reaches of the sky and they seemed so far away。 It wasn‘t long before we leved with them at 6000 meters。 The rice fields and mountains seemed so small from this height。 The heat from the hot air balloon warmed my head and my back and the breeze from the cool morning rushed past my face。 It was beautiful and enchanting。Our Pilot was from Tiawan， trained in Sydney and had great joy in floating us close to tree tops and mountain sides。 I never once felt scared。 Even when the German guy almost knocked my out when trying to turn around！It was magnificent and something I reccomend。 Enven if you are affraid of heights。It’s the closet you‘ll ever come to flying！

Guilin to Yang Shuo

I spent only a few days pottering around Wuhan and taking in the few sights of interest. I was now on my way to Guilin to get the bus to scenic and beautiful Yang Shuo. At the train station I got the usual amount of attention from the locals but was lucky enough to get the attention of Joyce. A beautiful, great English speaking Chinese girl. She helped me find the correct train and even made sure I found my way to the right carriage. Lucky for me because that day there were a million trains at one platform! Settled in to my bunk and reading my book a little voice interrupted to invite me to dinner. It was Jocye. She wanted to buy me dinner and have a chat, as she too was travelling alone. She was really sweet and it made the long trip so much nicer. At 4 in the morning I was abruptly awoken by the train attendant, telling me my station was coming up in an hour. An HOUR! I could have slept a bit longer! Oh well. Off the train I asked a taxi driver about the bus for Yang Shuo. He put me in his cab and proceeded to drive me twice around the medium strip and delivered me right back where we started and right to the door to the bus. Fat chance he was going to get paid and I told him just so. Fancy trying to mess with me when I'm tired and sleep deprived.All before the sun came up too! In the cosy bus I slept the hour to Yang Shuo and when I awoke I was treated to the sight of beautiful mountain and Krasts and a accient city.

On the way to Wuhan

Off the boat I had to meet a local guide who was going to get me from Mao ping to, Yichang, to Wuhan. I met a guy who looked no older than 12, my guide, who showed me the way to the "bus station". It was a local bus! Lucky for us, a friend of his passed and we had the pleasure of taking the hour trip buy car. In a non descript palce, we jumped on to a local bus and headed for Yichang city, where I was to catch yet another bus 5 hours to Wuhan. Eventually reaching our destination, in Yichang, I was taken off the local bus and litterly thrown in to a grubby old bus, for the trip to Wuhan. Sometimes taking a bus is such a displeasure. Anyhow. Sitting on the back seat I was treated to sliding off and hitting the floor everytime the breaks were hit. This was constantly, as the only way they seem to drive in Asia is, Go and Stop! Eventually the bus was so overloaded I was unable to go anywhere. I just had someones bags constantly slipping off the back shelf and thumping me in the head. I was lucky not to have suffered permanant brain damage. After a long 5 hours we reached the City of Wuhan. Apparently one of the most populated cities in the world. The only problem, when I got off the bus, was that the local hotels do not accept foreigners. Some rediculous law the government implimented. So here I am, standing in one of the hotels that do take foreingers almost choking at the price! There is a YHA in Wuhan but to find the address is impossible. Lucky for me the hotel manager sees the alarm in my eyes and slips me the address to the local YHA. Also nice enough to put me in a taxi and give the driver the directions. Not only is it hard to get the address but also a bugger to find. I was wondering around for a bit until a few girls headed me in the right direction. Not so much headed me there, but delivered me there personally. I was glad to have a bed, a bathroom and some baggage free head space!

The Three Gorges

I thought that, whilst in China, I should see the Three Gorges, before the Chinese government dam it completely. Since 2003 the Chinese government has been building a dam, to stop major flooding and create more efficent electricity production. The unfortunate thing is that the Gorges water level has been raised 154 meters and will ultimately be raised to 170 meters above sea level. The major part of the Three Gorges population, all 2 million of them, have been relocated. Either up hill, to higher ground, or to a completely new city. The problem is, that some peoples standard of living has improved, whilst others have been relocated to places that they have no work, or city skills. Thus decreasing their standard of living.
All this aside, I was glad to have seen the Gorges whilst the level of water wasn't too high. The sheer size of the Gorges were amazing. I could only have imagined them before the first water level rise. Mainly of black and orange sandstone they towered above us. Perched on hill tops were thousand year old temples and family homes. Many years ago the Gorges were logged for their pine trees and only recently have they started a re-forestation programme. On the sheer vertical sides of the Gorges, are little saplings desperately trying to hold on.
We approached our first Gorge in the early hours of the second morning and watching the sun rise over these monsters was amazing. It was really cold on the deck and I was huddled close to 50 other Australians. The boat was like a grey haired convention. The Probus Club of Sydney was aboard and no member was younger than 50. It was lovely to be surounded by good old Aussie humour. I was honoured with my own cabin and took great pleasure in making myself at home, unpacking all my stuff. Most passengers were shocked at the over inflated 5 star status. Much closer to an European 3 star. I however was chuffed. I didn't have to go far for a meal and the buffet was far better than some things I've eaten here. I certainly got my monies worth that's for sure! Sweets and all!
Back to the Gorges.
On the first day we had a class on Chinese traditional medicine, Accupuncture and Chinese herbal facial. After all that excietment, we visited a temple which was pearched on a hill. Myself and a few brave others opted out of the chairlift and decided to climb all 500 stairs to the top, in the blistering sun. At the top we met our local guide and she guided us through the history of the temple. Along the way we had to pass some tests to see if we are good people or if we are going to hell.
The first was to step over a bridge. If the gremlins, of sorts, swolled you up then you were not such a goodie. The second was to walk past gosts that protected a doorway. As you stepped through the door, women using their right foot first, and not touching the raised door way, the gosts would either take you or leave you. I was left. We reached a set of stairs. If you wanted the easy way to heaven and were under 33 years you had to run to the top of the 33 steep stairs, in one breath. I did it!! Yee harr! The final test was to stand at the temple entrance of the devil spirt, balancing on a stone, on one foot, for three seconds. If you over balanced, than you were bad and I would hate to know what happened to you. Especially after seeing the torture chamber! So all tests passed, we were safe to return to the comfort of the boat. Later that evening we were having a "meet the Captain of the ship" Party....Free Champagne...What can I say...I'm a sucker for Free and Champagne!
On the second day and passing through the first and second gorge in the morning, we had a bit of time to relax. Something I took advantage of in the quiet of the ship. Hate to say it, but, it made me not look forward to rejoining the real China. The quiet was just too inviting. Even to the piont of seeing the third gorge through the window, from the comfort of my cabin.
On the second day, at some point in the morning, we had a little day trip. We were hearded on to a smaller ferry sized boat (well, a Cat),put in to our groups and taken through the Three Lesser Gorges. Very senic and quiet. A place were only small, pea pod wooden boats can go. In our groups we hopped in to our assigned pea pod boat and were paddled up the Lesser gorges. The men were slender, no skinny, muscular men, with the most amazing muscle definition. Every muscle on their body was toned and defined. They have two captains on the little vessel. One at the Bow and one at the Stern. 3 men with an ore each, at the front and one at the back. Originally these "Trekkers" would haul the boat, laden with produce or cargo, up the shallow Gorge, upstream. The water is so shallow in parts that they would disemark the boat and pull it naked, up the river, from the banks. The reason they were naked was that they were poor men and usually only had minimal clothes. It was to keep their clothes from being damaged and to stop them from chaffing the skin.
We, however, did not have the pleassure of the trekkers being naked, but dressed in very little shorts. They pulled us up stream, in waters so shallow you could touch the bottom. All whilst singing traditional songs and laughing jovially. On the way back to the ferry boat we were treated to two traditional songs. One from our local guide and one from a boat man.
On that evening the staff on the boat put on a talent show. Something that was rather amusing and filled in a good bit of time. My favourite bit was whenthey dragged on opf the chefs out of the kitchen, to join the others and did a happy little chef dance! Very funny!
On my final day (Not a planned one, but a travel agent mistake) we went off to visit the three Gorges Dam project. Here we saw the 5 stage ship locks, ship elevator, electricity turbines and station as wel as the dam wall itself. Such a rather impressive bit of building but rather an eyesaw too. The goverment has done it's most to ake the area nice on the eye. However ones eye still gravitates to the large number of electricity towers that dominate the area. Something I know is nessasary but takes away from the beauty of the area.
The only dampner of the trip was when I was approached by our group leader to say that I was dissembarking the ship on the third day. I had booked for 4 days but my travel agent seemed to get this all wrong! Typical really. Anyway,no part of trying to convince them otherwise helped. Well unless I was willing to part with another large sum of cash. Since I already spent well over my budget, it was time for me to go! The stress of trying wasn't worth it either. The Chinese are hard bastards to deal with and I didn't want to undo the past few days.

Chongqing Taxi drama

The trick in China is just to off load all your stuff in to a taxi, then organise where you need to go. Otherwise you'll stand there for ages and they'll refuse to take you anywhere. Something I learnt the hard way!
Off the train, I showed a few taxi drivers where I wanted to go on the map and they just shook their heads and drive off. So I jump the que, hopped in a taxi and we set off for my intended location. The booking office for the boat I intend to take up the Three Gorges. After a few laps of the area, my taxi driver couldn"t find the place and gives up on me on a whole. She tells me to get out of the taxi with the wave of her hands. Strange really, when you think they get paid for the time your in a taxi. You'd think they'd take you all over town just to reap the rewards. Anyway, out I hop, with a little concern and anticipation. Be brave, I thought and you'll be able to get through this one. Surely someone will help me. Well that's not really the done thing in China. If someone approaches you with a concerned looked, of the Western variety, you should turn on your heel and ignore them. I'm sure they have handed out a guide book on "A thousand ways to be Rude!" With a combination of the previous evenings dielemma, hardly any sleep, an early rise and being completely bloody lost, along came a few tears. Don't think that this will sway some Chinaman to help. No, infact, they run further away from you and then follow with the usual staring. That's it. I had had enough. I found my way to the local police station, thrusted my book in to some mans face and said HELP in a rather strained voice. Minutes later, after a quick phone call, I was packaged up, placed in a police car and delivered to the door of the required place. Amazing what a few tears can do!
Tickets booked for the boat, (5 star may I add, my litle indulgence) bags stored and only seven hours to kill before I could board my little slice of heaven for the next 4 evenings!

Transport Hell

Why, Oh Why, can't life be simple?
After Xi'an, I wanted to head south again to ChongQing, to get myself on a boat for the Three Gorges.A simple task usually. Give someone money for a train ticket and moments later....A ticket for the train. I, for convenience, organised my ticket through the hostel. Well, moments before I had to board the train there was, still no ticket. Apparently there was a problem at the ticket office and the conductor had the ticket for me on the train. Being a trusting soul, I actually believed the guest house owner. He was even kind enough to take me to the station and put me on the train himself. Even to the piont of finding one of the police and telling him my predicament. Moments later I was put on the train and shown to a sleeper. Hot and bothered I was in no mood for people to be staring and certainly in no mood for what came next.
A man came along and motioned that I was in his bunk and to move. Not actually giving me time to move, he proceded to kick me. This infuriated me and you could only imagine the reception he received from me. Ater a little tussle, I moved on to one of the seats provided for eating meals. After some time the conductor came along and I showed him my piece of paper which had my information written in Chinese. Basically it said...Can I have a hard sleeper? When he shook his head I asked for a soft sleeper. When he shook his head again and motioned to the hard seat area. I shook My head. No way! No Bloody Way!
Defiant and very pissed off, I sat there absolutely seething at the guest house owner.
Along came a guy from Melbourne. " I can't believe you got on the train without a ticket! Do you actually have a guide book for China? What are you doing? Do you have a travel plan" Basically I said " I can't believe I have survived in Asia for 7 month with out you" "Piss off" I was in no mood for meeting and talking to some guy who had been away from home for 2 weeks and was telling me how to travel. I think I was able to take care of myself!
About an hour later the original police man returned, demanding a certain amount of cash from me for a ticket. Being the sceptical person I have turned in to, I was very dubious that he was going to return with a ticket. However, Moments later he comes and collects me and ferries me off down the train. Wondering where the hell I was going, we eventually came apon a nice soft sleeper, filled with train workers and a cloud of smoke! What? I could be sleeping here tonight! Anyway. I was issued with a ticket and ferried back down the train to be shown my bed. It was in the staff section of the train and definately not the nicest area either, but I was happy to have a bed and not be stuck down with the rest of the population, in a hard seat. The only advantage to being stuck with the staff was, that they were poliet and as soon as the lights were out, they were snoring soundly and all was quiet. Also I didn't have to worry about some creep staring at me all night!

Xi'an

After a sad goodbye to Sabrina and Luc, I took myself off to the train station to catch a train to Xi'an, in China's northen region. At the train station I was accosted by several, very friendly and enthusiastic, Chinese woman. They all wanted to chat to me and make sure I was ok. The problem was that they spoke only Mandarin and I English. So the conversation went something like this.
Women: Chinese, Chinese, Chinese.
Me: Yeah nice weather and thanks that'd be great!
Women: More Chinese.
Me: Yeah, love to have a nice raost and a decent glass of milk!
Women: Bla, Bla, Bla.
Me: Sure that'd be nice.
Us: Hahahahaha!!
In the end I gave up trying to explain that I don't speak Mandarin and they certainly can't speak English, thanks for the help but I'm Ok.
And they gave up telling me that I was in a top Sleeper. Something I already knew considering I booked the ticket!
Very funny anyway.
So on the train and the usual obligatory stares, we were on our way to Xi'an and I was looking forward to getting an early night. Not to be however, as I was greeted by a friendly little face, of a young woman, who was very keen to practice her English. She did so by going through every page of my Mandarin/English conversation book, page by page. Something which took forever and at a painful pace. My saving grace was that the lights were turned out at exactly 10:30 pm. When I climbed in to my top bunk, three levels up, I was greeted by stares from the man across from me and when I awoke, there he was still staring! I wondering if he even slept?
Xi'an is yet another city surrounded by a protective wall. However only parts of the historical city remain and instead is a modern bustling hive within. I was there to see the Terricotta Worrriors. Thousands of years ago an Emperor built a Muselium for himself sourounded by an innner city palace and an outter city community. Beyond the walls of the city he built a great army of Terricotta Worriors, horses, a charriot and archers, all to protect him in the after life. These Worriors were distroyed by the new Emperor after the firsts demise. The army was discovered in 1976 and has been escavated and rebuilt over the last 30 years. The work is still continuing at night and is open to tourists during the day.
I did a tour of the area which was rather amusing. We stopped off at a mountain, which from our own discovery, was were one of the leaders during Moa time went to hide. Later being discvovered and forced to unite and fight against the Japanese. Our tour was all in Chinese and our so called English guides English, was very simple. Then we visited the Muesum of the Emporer's Muselium and then to the actually Muselium itself....Finally off to the Terricotta Worriors. I was awe struck at the sight of "toy soldiers" lined up in a neat line to protect a man in an after life. Each Worriors face was different. Each expression , hair, face shape, features and body shape all differed from each other. The detail was amazing. No wonder this is one of the Wonders of the World!

Chengdu and the Panda Breeding Research Center

Arriving in Chendu I was cranky and sleepless。 The thought of finding a taxi to get me to the hostel was sickening。 The reality was worse。 I couldn’t find someone who actually knew the address and when I did they wanted to charge me a fortune。 I ended up sitting in a park until I was collected enough to try again。 I found a lovely lady， who found me a taxi， who was honest enough not to drive me the lenght width and bredth of China。 I eventually found my hostel， booked in ，had a meal， did my washing and finally had a sleep。 When i woke up there was Sabrina and Luc。。。。A Black English guy and a sultry Italian woman。 Great people to make friends with。 We spent the evening eating and drinking and having a good laugh。Poor Luc is an eyesaw in China and the attention he got was amazing and wears alittle thin after a bit too！ The following day we spent walking the lengthn of Chengdu taking in the sights。 The evening was spent eating and Luc and I having heated and competative games of pool and darts。 I had a great time with them。 Such a change to the others from Dali！
On my last day in Chengdu I went to the Panda Research Center。 Up early and waiting for my guide。 I sat in the lobby until finally I was put in to a van。 5 minuted later I was removed from the van and put in the correct one。 So off we went。 Myself and 5 Irish boys。 When we arrived at the center there were hundreds of other tourists and Chinese alike。I was concerned that I wouldn‘t be able to see anything。 When we got to the encloser I was happy to see three beautiful Pandas munching away on tons of bamboo， staring back at us。 I was only meters from these gentle giants。They were so graceful and cuddly， I just wanted to leap right in！Sanity made me decide not too。 At each enclosure I was graced with presence of Pandas eating their morning meal and slumbering away on the sun beds。In the nursery there were little tinie tiny babies all pink and devine。 Or little kitten sized black and white creatures curled up in a humidity crib。 The only unfortunate thing was the stupid Chinese tourists who didn’t care about the "No Fash" sign that hung above the crib.　
Ｔｈｅ　ｐｏｏｒ　ｔｈｉｎｇｓ！
Ｓｏｏｎ　ｉｔ’ｌｌ　ｂｅ　ｃａｌｌｅｄ　"ｔｈｅ　Ｂｌｉｎｄ　Ｐａｎｄａ　
ｒｅｓｅａｒｃｈ　ｃｅｎｔｒｅ!"

Hard Seat HELL

Instead of following the rest of the gang to Tiger Leaping Gorge, I headed off to Chengdu. This involved an 8 hour bus trip, followed straight up with a 14 hour train trip. I was feeling particularly brave this day and thought that it'd all be okay as long as I have a hard sleeper at the end. Off I set on my journey with one of the gang, Walid. The bus trip was beautiful and the mountain views were amazing. Only the toilet stops were a bit hairy. They consited of open pits, with open cubicals, in a very open area. I have lost all humility these days and bearing my white and pink bits to the community is all in a days work. It's the pungent stench that always renders me usless and sick.
As we sailed through the mountains we came to a town that resembled something closer to Grand Central Station, rather than a town. It was congested with all types of Passenger vehicles. People were spilling from pick-ups, buses and trucks. The noise was defening as horns blew and people screamed to be heard. It seemed as though there was traffic jams at every piont. There was not one bit of road to be seen from the sheer volume of cars and people. I thought that we'd be stuck there for days but after a half hour of defening noise and choking fumes, we were through. Back on the road and in clear, clean air.
We arrived at the city where we had to change to the train. This place was grim, in that it was more a mining town than anything. The air was thick with pollution and the buildings grey with dust. As we got ourselves off one bus we were pushed on to another. Apparently this one took us to the train station. Along the way we adopted Sonia, a spanish girl, who seemed not so intersted in a conversation with me but prefered Walid. I was rather prefering a taxi to the bus, as we had all our packs and the public bus was taking forever. I also had a bladder that was about to explode it was so full! Not soon enough we arrived at the station. In typical Chinese style, I was pushed and shoved as people tried to get past me and my encumbering pack. After 8 hours on a bus this does not make an amused Lizzy.
Safe in the hall of the booking office at the train station, Walid took control. Not the wisest choice, since his English is very poor and his Chinese worse. Eventually he appeared with three tickets for a hard seat! What!? Never send a man to do a womans work! Apparently the sleepers were all booked up due to students returning to Uni after holidays. What Walid didn't realise is, that you can get an up grade ticket on the train but you need them to issue you with an upgrade voucher when you first buy your original one...Got it? So, we had no up grade and was stuck with a hard seat!
Off we all go for a bite to eat before we get on the train. At this piont I was a little tired and a bit grumpy and walking for hours to find a meal was not what I was looking forward to. Sonia, however, seemd to be set on the fact that there was a great restaurant up a monster flight of stairs. We got our meal, which was revolting, and I was looking forward to a bit of quite time. Sonia, however, talked and talk and talked. When she was lost for an English word she asked me. When I gave her the answer she said I was wrong...excuse me...Aren't I the one that's been speaking English for THE PAST 30 YEARS! This was my cue to leave before I killed the little Spanish Bitch. I left organising to meet them before boarding the train.
An hour later and I was still waiting in the entrance hall....No Walid and Sonia. I headed for the train myself, knowing that they close the platform 20 minutes before the train is due to leave. Well. The carriage was the one closet to the engine. There wasn't actually any platfrom for me to get myself on to the train. I had to haul myself, my two bags and a big bottle of water in to the carriage. All well and good if you are tall but the first step was closer to my boobs than my ankels and I had to perform some type of yoga to get up there! All whilst a crowd of on lookers sniggered!
Oh My God! On the train there was about 400 people, all with luggage enough to sink the Titanic. I was positive there weren't even enough seat for us all and it was hotter than the pits of hell. Still no Walid and Sonia. Eventually after extracting 3 grubby farmers from my seat, the police paid me a visit. They were concerned that me sitting near the window would be a hazard for me and my bags saftey. Perhaps someone would rob me from the open window in the middle of the night. I assured them that I would be fine and explained I would be joined by fellow Western travellers. Also I was close to oxygen and up against the window. Some where to lay my head at least. They wanted to squeeze me between two grubby, seedy looking Chinese men and I can assure you I was safer where I was! At this piont I was still waiting for Walid and Sonia and the prospect of them not getting on the train was actually comforting. Sonia seemed like a real cow and not too keen on me either. To no avail. They showed up in the nick of time. Bugger!
On the tracks and away we went. I felt like the invisible man. Sonia and Walid were entranced in some kind of mateing ritual and I was completely ignored. Their broken and bad English only made the situation even more unbareable and painful. At one piont there was some rediculous converstation about a butterfly and life and death and family. Really people...Just say...I like you!
A student finally approched and saved me from having to endure anymore pitiful conversation. His topic was war and why do we think the Japanese and Americans invaded China? My response was that we can't comment on a war we weren't born for or had any part in. Well, Miss Bitchy britches said that the Americans were idiots because they voted Bush twice and people were being killed in South America. When I said, well That actually wasn't my piont, She went ballistic and accused me of being rude and not listening. Well good natured as I can be I told her to F**k off and She was f**king rude. She hadn't even bothered to ask my name and include me in conversation. Even to the piont of asking Walid to talk in French! Then she said "What language do you speak?" When I said English, She said I was stupid because I only spoke one language and I couldn't even do that properly! This coming from a woman who said Fiveteen instead of Fifteen! Conversation ended with me telling her if she bothered to speak to me again it better be to tell me that she was taking her last breath.Walid was completely unaware of all this and was a little bewilleded by the tension.
So on the night went and each minute seemed like an eternity. By about 11 pm Walid was complaining about stomach cramps. This had happened a few nights before, so I wasn't too concerned. After a few more hours it seemd that the pain was getting worse and he was carring on like typical man. So I called for a Dr. Eventually the train Dr arrived and we tried to get some sense out of Walid. In his dribbling English and man way of dealing with pain, it took some time to get any information. Finally after what seemed like eternity and more painful for me than Walid (I had to listen to it) the Doc decided it was his apendix. Everyone was relocated from the seat, except for us and one Chinses speaking kid, so Walid could lay down. I took this opportunity to get some sleep. I was woken at three by a comotion and it was Walid whailing like a banshee. Apparently the pain was unimaginable and apparently unexplainable in English. Only gibbering like an idiot. So off the train he went. With Miss Spanish bitch hot at his heels. Well, until he told her to stay in the train and he'd see us both later. Bugger again! I had no interest in following him. Bad I know but sometimes on the road you need to be selfish...especially when they treat you like your invisible.
I continued on my way to Chengdu with Spanish Bitch sleeping on my shoulder.

Lijiang

After recovering from our little hike up the "Hill" I decided to head to Lijiang, yet another beautiful historical city. Unfortunately, so did the rest of the population of our group.
Majority of which I got on with minus the exception of a few. When we arrived in Lijiang, after a senic bus trip, we all had to decided where to rest our heads. This in a democratic society would be easy. We'd all have our input and decided as a majority. But in true communist form one particular male, whom I detest, seem to be making all the decisions. Even when I tried loudly to voice my opinion, he seemed to be deaf. So off they all race across a busy road leaving me behind to try and navigate across the road alone. Soon after they disappeared down an ally way and I thought I was lost for good. Eventually I caught up with them whilst they moaned that I was keeping them back. I really wasn't aware that this was some kind if endurance race. Eventually, Manu, a fluent Chinese speaking French guy, veered us to a nice little guest house.
After some serious haggling on price, along with a few price changes, along came deciding who was sharing with whom. As there was 7 of us and 3 double rooms and 1 dorm, who do you think got the ruff end of the stick. It seemed that I was the third wheel. When Ed did an about face and forgot that we decided to stick together and travel together and shared a room with the Communist leader, I was on my own. Nice really bloody nice! Oh well you trully do know who your friends are! Everyone else pretty much treated me as though I didn't exsit. Oh well. This a least made me next decision easy. I was undecided as to climb the likes of The Tiger Leaping Gorge, killing myself yet again, or to go on to Xi'an to see the Terricotta Worriors early......Since climbing the mountain involved the others...which one do you think won.
That afternoon I left them to hike up a mountain for a view of Lijian to munch down a deccident morsel of Chocolate brownie and ice-cream. I think after all I had to endure I really deserved it!!

Dali mountain and the bike debarcle

We met up with a few guys and decided to go round Dali, bike style. My usual pink bike with the seat so low, my knees were in my ears, needed a few adjustments. After the seat was raised and the fee was paid, we were able to start off on our adventure. I knew things were not going to go my way when as soon as we left the drive way my seat went south and the boys took off oblivious. Back to the bike hire man, he fixed my seat, again, Ed came back (only to get air when he saw me) and we attempted a second leaving. Off down a hill we came to a stop to decide the best mode of action to get to the lake, when my seat, again, went south. Finding a repaire man was easy considering we stopped at the local bus station and soon I was peddling my way through the carpark. Not for long. The first bump and my knees were well past the top of my head and I was heading back to the guest house. On arrival the bike man had gone, who knows where and no one else was there to help me. When I enquired at the guest house reception they told me to go hire another bike from some one else and when he returned he would return my deposit. Deposit! I want my whole fee back considering the bike was cactus and I didn't actually go anywhere! After a little lost face and me calling the manager Vietnamese (an insult considering their history)
I decided that a bike ride was out of the question and was happy just to read my book....When I realised that Ed had the key and I was locked out!
Luckily I didn't go because after 8 the boys still hadn't returned...Where did they go...Bamuda? ( Yes I was still locked out and a tad unhappy too)

The following day, after being joined by a few more people we decided to "climb" one of the mountains surrounding Dali. It consisted of all of us walking to the national park entrance and getting in to a heated debate as wether to go up by chair lift and walk down. Or walk up and down by cable car. Or up and down by mechanical help and just enjoy the 12 klm walk for what it was going to be...12 ks.
Eventually and after saying do what the buggery you bloody well want. We split in to 2 groups...The boys who were too macho and out to prove themselves a hero and those that wanted to have a good day with out requiring an ambulance at the end. I was in the latter.
Going up by chair lift was so lovely and we were able to look out over the mountains and city.( Idiots who wanted to walk.) At the top we took in a few temples and did our little pray to Buddha (for a rediculous "donation") then set off for our hike. Now the Chinese have the idea. A hike consists of a paved walkway cut in to the side of a mountain. Their idea is, that everyone of all ages can take in this great site with out killing themselves. The breath taking senery of mountains, city and waterfalls was something to take in at a lesurley pace. This was easy for my little group of 4.
We stopped at the caves and ran into a little Chinese man sweeping a path. He pionted us in the direction of another cave that was situated up a rather steep climb on the side of a mountain top. I attempted to climb up but as I was one with snot, being the proud owner of a runny nose, I found it a bit too hard to breath. I took the easy option of hanging around the bottom for a rest. Apparently not missing much anyway.
This is where our little Chinese mate told everyone that he was a guide and could take us climbing to the top of another mountain. Well, everyone except for me. I was far to fat to be climbing mountains and was far surprised I was up there now. I was going to mention Mt. Kinabalu but instead took great offence and took off down the path in a flurry of tears. When are people ever going to learn not to judge a book by it's plump little cover?
After a few minutes I was joined by the rest of the group of the fab 4, telling me not to worry about it...not bad coming from a girl with the body of a super model. I wasn't going to let him spoil my day and we kept up at a great pace. Eventually we reached the end and was trying to find our way to the Cable car station when we happened apon a bunch of Monkey's. You can imagine my delight considering how much I hate the little buggers, due to our last few meetings. These poor guys were, however, tethered to a wall, with little, if no room to move. It was awful and I was more than happy to go. On the cable car I was a little panic-ie as we glided over the canyon of the too mountains. I even had to hold Rachel's hand a few times. The older I get the more rediculous I am becoming. Back on earth and stable land, we all headed out for a Tibetan feast to celebrate our mountain climb...Macho men and all.

Kunming to Dali

We have the pleasure here of a really great train system, which voids the use of night buses!! Yee harr!
So off to Dali it was on the 10.30 train. Luckily we had a hard sleeper. It sounds as though it would be uncomfortable, being "hard", but it just means a nice firm little mattress. Very comfy, especially after the cement style mattresses of Thailand.Far cheaper than a "soft sleeper" and first class compaired to "hard seat"...

Anyway...getting away with myself. Ed, who was on a date of sorts, said that he would meet me at 9:30 so we can be at the train station for our required 40 mins before depature time.(They close the gates to the train at least 15 mins b4 depature) However, Mr hot britches wasn't there and we all know how I hate people who can't be on time! As I was getting myself into a cab, himself decides to show up. Already pissed off, this pissed me off more, because it meant that I was going to be even later than I wanted to be! I was able to contain my cranky-pantus enough not to yell at him. Well, at least until we arrived at the station. When he said
"We better hurry, we have to board soon"...I think my response to that was some thing along the lines of "Really Mr hormones! If you weren't thinking with your penis, we would already be on that train and I wouldn't want to spear you through the heart with my umbrella" I think he realised that I as a might cranky and gave me a well deserved wide birth for the remainder of the evening. Well, as wide as you can in a sleeper carriage of a train.
When we finally got on to said train, we came a cross a lovely family who were more than happy to entertain my attempts of Chinese in barter for entertaining their kid. The boy was well entertained but my Chinese didn't even improve a stitch. No matter how hard they tried.
All in all I arrived in Dali's Accient city, better rested than I would have on a night bus (Uhrrr, still makes me shiver) and in better humour than the night before. It was now safe for Ed to talk to me.
We arrived at a charming but large, guest house in the Accient City centre and slept off the last of our 6 am arrival haze. When we woke, showered and fanged down a huge hamburger, we took on the sights of Accient Dali. The city is surrounded by a high protective wall with 4 ornate and beautiful gates. Enclosed are beautiful old buildings and shop houses that you would think of as typically old world China. There are many stalls, street venders and restaurants and the palce is a buzz. It's surrounded by beautiful towering mountains, a large lake and a great deal of shops catering for the tourist trade.
Ed and I walked along the wall and checked out the West Gate. Enclose in the building was many odes to Buddha and a communal meeting room, where locals gather to drink Tea and play Chinese Scrabble. On the wall was a community garden and women with grubby hands dug away at the soil, planting flowers and green vegetables.
The only thing that was a bit bad was being dragged in to shops that you really didn't want to go in to and ladies on the streets asking you if you wanted Hash....apart from that it was really great.