The Three Gorges

I thought that, whilst in China, I should see the Three Gorges, before the Chinese government dam it completely. Since 2003 the Chinese government has been building a dam, to stop major flooding and create more efficent electricity production. The unfortunate thing is that the Gorges water level has been raised 154 meters and will ultimately be raised to 170 meters above sea level. The major part of the Three Gorges population, all 2 million of them, have been relocated. Either up hill, to higher ground, or to a completely new city. The problem is, that some peoples standard of living has improved, whilst others have been relocated to places that they have no work, or city skills. Thus decreasing their standard of living.
All this aside, I was glad to have seen the Gorges whilst the level of water wasn't too high. The sheer size of the Gorges were amazing. I could only have imagined them before the first water level rise. Mainly of black and orange sandstone they towered above us. Perched on hill tops were thousand year old temples and family homes. Many years ago the Gorges were logged for their pine trees and only recently have they started a re-forestation programme. On the sheer vertical sides of the Gorges, are little saplings desperately trying to hold on.
We approached our first Gorge in the early hours of the second morning and watching the sun rise over these monsters was amazing. It was really cold on the deck and I was huddled close to 50 other Australians. The boat was like a grey haired convention. The Probus Club of Sydney was aboard and no member was younger than 50. It was lovely to be surounded by good old Aussie humour. I was honoured with my own cabin and took great pleasure in making myself at home, unpacking all my stuff. Most passengers were shocked at the over inflated 5 star status. Much closer to an European 3 star. I however was chuffed. I didn't have to go far for a meal and the buffet was far better than some things I've eaten here. I certainly got my monies worth that's for sure! Sweets and all!
Back to the Gorges.
On the first day we had a class on Chinese traditional medicine, Accupuncture and Chinese herbal facial. After all that excietment, we visited a temple which was pearched on a hill. Myself and a few brave others opted out of the chairlift and decided to climb all 500 stairs to the top, in the blistering sun. At the top we met our local guide and she guided us through the history of the temple. Along the way we had to pass some tests to see if we are good people or if we are going to hell.
The first was to step over a bridge. If the gremlins, of sorts, swolled you up then you were not such a goodie. The second was to walk past gosts that protected a doorway. As you stepped through the door, women using their right foot first, and not touching the raised door way, the gosts would either take you or leave you. I was left. We reached a set of stairs. If you wanted the easy way to heaven and were under 33 years you had to run to the top of the 33 steep stairs, in one breath. I did it!! Yee harr! The final test was to stand at the temple entrance of the devil spirt, balancing on a stone, on one foot, for three seconds. If you over balanced, than you were bad and I would hate to know what happened to you. Especially after seeing the torture chamber! So all tests passed, we were safe to return to the comfort of the boat. Later that evening we were having a "meet the Captain of the ship" Party....Free Champagne...What can I say...I'm a sucker for Free and Champagne!
On the second day and passing through the first and second gorge in the morning, we had a bit of time to relax. Something I took advantage of in the quiet of the ship. Hate to say it, but, it made me not look forward to rejoining the real China. The quiet was just too inviting. Even to the piont of seeing the third gorge through the window, from the comfort of my cabin.
On the second day, at some point in the morning, we had a little day trip. We were hearded on to a smaller ferry sized boat (well, a Cat),put in to our groups and taken through the Three Lesser Gorges. Very senic and quiet. A place were only small, pea pod wooden boats can go. In our groups we hopped in to our assigned pea pod boat and were paddled up the Lesser gorges. The men were slender, no skinny, muscular men, with the most amazing muscle definition. Every muscle on their body was toned and defined. They have two captains on the little vessel. One at the Bow and one at the Stern. 3 men with an ore each, at the front and one at the back. Originally these "Trekkers" would haul the boat, laden with produce or cargo, up the shallow Gorge, upstream. The water is so shallow in parts that they would disemark the boat and pull it naked, up the river, from the banks. The reason they were naked was that they were poor men and usually only had minimal clothes. It was to keep their clothes from being damaged and to stop them from chaffing the skin.
We, however, did not have the pleassure of the trekkers being naked, but dressed in very little shorts. They pulled us up stream, in waters so shallow you could touch the bottom. All whilst singing traditional songs and laughing jovially. On the way back to the ferry boat we were treated to two traditional songs. One from our local guide and one from a boat man.
On that evening the staff on the boat put on a talent show. Something that was rather amusing and filled in a good bit of time. My favourite bit was whenthey dragged on opf the chefs out of the kitchen, to join the others and did a happy little chef dance! Very funny!
On my final day (Not a planned one, but a travel agent mistake) we went off to visit the three Gorges Dam project. Here we saw the 5 stage ship locks, ship elevator, electricity turbines and station as wel as the dam wall itself. Such a rather impressive bit of building but rather an eyesaw too. The goverment has done it's most to ake the area nice on the eye. However ones eye still gravitates to the large number of electricity towers that dominate the area. Something I know is nessasary but takes away from the beauty of the area.
The only dampner of the trip was when I was approached by our group leader to say that I was dissembarking the ship on the third day. I had booked for 4 days but my travel agent seemed to get this all wrong! Typical really. Anyway,no part of trying to convince them otherwise helped. Well unless I was willing to part with another large sum of cash. Since I already spent well over my budget, it was time for me to go! The stress of trying wasn't worth it either. The Chinese are hard bastards to deal with and I didn't want to undo the past few days.