Lizzy_Loo O.S

Follow Lizzy as she travels the world, conquering fears, experiencig life with the locals, and drinking from the fountains of youth! Or, stick around to hear about her experiences in cultural intergration in the never regions of deepest Asia, Europe, and the rest of the world, and experience the with her the trials and tribulations of international travel.

Tuesday, May 30, 2006

BKK to Cambodia

Well after a last, very frustrating day, in Bangkok I took the early morning bus to Cambodia. After many warnings i still got sucked in by the "scam bus". Basically you pay a decent price for a ticket that takes you from BKK to Siem Reap. The trick is that instead of taking you to the border to do you visa they stop at a restaurant and extract 1200 Baht for a "quick" visa service instead of the required 800. i stood my ground and said all i had was US20...that is what your actually ment to pay at the border. So they tell me that I will have to find my own way to Siem Reap because the bus wont wait for me..they have a schedule to keep. This is all a stand over tatic to get you to cough up the extra cash that goes in their pocket. When we get to the border I tell the bus driver to wait or refund me my cash for the onward trip...I reach the Visa department and some smug shit tells me it's 1000 baht or if i pay with US it's 2 hours. So i say I'll wait! What did i have to lose the bus driver was leaving without me anyway! Only half an hour later I get my visa and on my way to the arrivals desk for my stamp. Mind you I didn't resist telling smug bastard to "have a nice day" so venimously he almost fell of his chair!
I get outsid arrivals and low and behold their is my bus with every other sucker who had cought a scam bus too. We get ushered onto a small bus only to go 200 meters to get off. Finally the heard you back onto a bus according to where they think you will be staying. For every person they get to stay at a guest house, after much pleeding and sometimes a little aggression, they get a commision!
My bus had no air con or suspension and the 7 hour trip was down a red dusty dirt road that looked like a moon crater. It was the most awful thing i have done to date.....and I am exhusted!

Wednesday, May 24, 2006

The Floating Markets

The floating market are just that....Fruit and vege on sale via boats in the canals.

Local people live in a canal system that looks like a mini city made up of water paved roads. The shops come floating past you in a hustle and bustle instead of zooming past you on a cavalcade of motor vehicle. Ladies cook delicacies that smell of aromatic herbs and fruit so vibrant against the mucky waters. Elderly women bathe on the platforms above their houses and the chatter buzzes in your ears as jokes and banter bounce from boat to boat. Longtail boats fly past as people taxi their way through the canals to the arrive at their place of work and new destinations. Foreigners are greeted by souvenir salesman as they click their cameras at the awesome sights. White powdered, wrinkled and toothless faces smile at you as you grab bags of rambutans and munch on sweet pancakes.
"Swadee Ka".

This is a morning at the floating markets.

Tiger Temple

There is a Monk that took in an orphaned tiger and a few months later was presented with two more. He devoted his time to caring for these animals and eventually he started a sanctuary for Tigers.
Yesterday I got to go and play with fully grown Tigers!!!
You go into a canyon, where someone takes you buy the hand and takes round, one by one, to sit and pat a Tiger, whilst another takes photos of you.
The first time I went in I was scared a shaking like a leaf. I couldn't believe that I was sitting next to a man eating Tiger and they were encouraging me to practically lay on top of it for a hug!
The second time I went in..Yes I'm greedy!!
I was laying down beside them and rubbing their bellies, giving them kisses and patting their giant size heads.
It was absolutely amazing!!
The original Monk is still there and has such a relaxed attitude with the cats. One was getting a little vocal and started to growl and get up so he went over and grabbed it by the head and stuck his thumb in it's mouth and it just sucked on it.
It was like he was rousing on a puppy not a giant sized cat.
After the pat-at-thon we were able to individually walk with the monk and walk the tiger on a lead...on a lead. haha. back to it's house.
Ahhhhh...Yesterday I hugged a TIGER!!

Day trip

I took a day trip to the Erawan Falls, Hellfire Pass, the Death Railway and the Bridge over the river Kwai.
We started the morning trekking up to the seventh level of the falls in the pouring rain. Finally we reached the top and took a swim in the top most pool af beautiful cold water. It was worth the trek. Even when I ever so gracefully slipped and fell face first into the water. So gracefully in fact, no one actually realized I had fell and was simpering in pain from bashing my knee into the rock. As we swam we had fish nibbling on our toes and as much as I know they were harmless I still let at a yelp each time..This was to the amusement of my fellow day trippers.
After a soggy walk back to the bottom we had lunch and went on to Hellfire Pass. The forty five minute journey there seemed a lifetime long. I was wet, the aircon was blearing and I was freezing my bits off. I was glad to get out back into the humidity.
The Hellfire Pass Museum is run by veteran affairs Dept in Australia and it gives you a moving display of life as a POW in the Hellfire camp.
I took an Audio Tour of the Pass which took me along the path the POW's walked to work each day and had many stories from the men themselves.
It was so emotionally moving I think I laughed, cried and cried some more and the amazing things these people had to suffer at the hands of the Japanese Government.
The place was quite scerene and beautiful as well as hauntingly sad. There seemed to be a presence about the place that is indescribable.
We went on to the Death Railway and I walk along the bridge track that was built by the Australian Pow's and was lucky enough to be able to take photo's without all the tourists on there as well.
We took the train down the railway for the scenic tour and I spent the whole time drying myself out by hanging out of the doors on the side of the carriage.
The Bridge over the River Kwai was our last stop and yet again it looked like tourist central with coaches pulling up by the dozen. I wa patient enough to wait and get some photos with nobody on it....Even if everyone on the tour was waiting for me!!

The train, Kanchanaburi and the Guest house

The train to Kanchanaburi is on the other side of Bangkok so we trudged our way to the Skytrain and headed towards the river. Some times I wonder who's idea it is to lug 18 kg's across countries and call it fun? We arrived at the river in the nick of time to catch the boat up river to find our way the train station. I stupidly listened to the guy at the guest house and we ended up getting off a stop early so we had to trudge half an hour or so under grubby underpasses to find the station.
Eventually we arrived (in the rain) to find out that yet again we were a little miss informed and that the train didn't actually leave for another hour or so and we had to sit o the platform surrounded by a pack of hungry but happy dogs. The sweetest of them sat there with big "please feed me eyes" rolling and doing trick in aid of food. Yes, it worked! I am such a softy!
Finally we bordered the train and it was a little wooded carriage with big windows that opened up to the Senora. We went past some slum humpy bong style settlements and the filth and rubbish was disgusting and amazing all at the same time. I was mortified that people live like that and happily.
Eventually we passed all this and headed into some better scenery which I pretty much slept through..
On the train we were approached by a guy offering us accommodation at a fair price and we said we'd have a look but no promises. The shine still hadn't worn off from our luck on Kho Phangna with our little bungalow in paradise and we were hoping that this would be similar. We boarded a Swangthaw (Ute style taxi) and headed full of hope to our possible accommodation.
All hope was lost when we saw what lay ahead of us! A tent would have been far more glamorous and definitely far cleaner. So back in the taxi and on to a new location. Finally we found a place that seemed decent so we were happy to settle down and get some food.
Well, once we paid and shut the door to our room we realized that there was a smell very similar to rotten old footy socks. And there was more mould on the ceilings than on smelly old cheese. The disappointment of this was too much so we took a stroll and found a new place to stay and stayed there till we finally admitted defeat and had to return to our smelly damp room. The next morning we promptly checked out and headed to our wonderful new airy abode.
All was good in the world again.

One day in Bangkok

Gee...That sounds like a song!!
Hanna and I spent a day running around MBK one of Bangkoks' largest shopping complex, to find Hanna a pair of shoes and to see if she could change her plane ticket to join me in Cambodia for a bit. Well neither was successful and she was a little less than happy. So, to cheer her up I got her an emergency coffee and we took a little stroll to Jim Thompsons' house. It was so beautiful and amazingly tranquil it did the trick. Not only was he a genius with an eye for Thai silk he was a little clever in putting six Thai home together to create an amazing living space. Too bad he had to go get himself "mysteriously Disappeared" in Cameron Highlands in Malaysia.....

That evening I spent the night with Dan & Co. Back at MBK and then onto Pat Pong the ping pong show district...Well that's what I'd like to call it anyway. On the way to dinner I had several offers to see a "Pussy show" and watch some chick shoot darts and light a cigarette with her bits! That is really something I do not need to see...Tourist or not..That is something you should do at home!! And how in hell do you know you can do these things anyway?
After dinner we headed to the "gay street" and took in some beautiful ladyboys and try hard wanna be Drag Queens..Oh, and a few cocktails!
Unfortunately this is were I had to say farewell to Dan cause Hanna and I were heading to Kanchanaburi the next day.

The Bus from Hua Hin to BKK

We got on a bus...Off a bus...Then on a bus...(this time only for a lunch break though) and things were all going fine and on time........BUT
It started to rain and it came down in buckets..And than, it rained even harder!!
I needed to go to the loo on the bus and it was the most disgusting thing I have ever had the misfortune to have to do. The loo stank like I have never smelt before and I had all of 2cm between me and the door!! Amazingly enough I could hold my breath long enough, and perform enough unbelievable yoga techniques, to be able to empty my bladder without doing it on myself and vomiting simultaneously!
Sometimes I really do amaze myself!
So, Hanna and I settled back to have a little snooze when the rain was suddenly inside our bus..Through the air conditioning vents the water was pouring in and down Hanna's seat. Than all of a sudden it was pouring out of the bulkhead and there was literally water every where!
I moved into the isle and sat on the step at the back right next to the disgustingly odorous toilet all so Hanna could actually sit in a comfortable position. The things we do for friendship. At this stage we were finding this a bit amusing until Hanna realized her day pack was sitting in gallons of water and her contents were happily floating inside her bag...
Then we arrived (on time mind you) at Bangkok's South bound bus station to a corous of "where you go?Taxi?" from a mirade of taxi drivers and I found my backpack swimming in a very large body of water!!!

Hua Hin

Well what can one say about Hua Hin....Not a lot really. It's definitely set up for the resort style tourist (sorry Dan) and not much in the way of a backpackers heaven. If you are Scandinavian have a lot of money and just want to work on your tan by the pool than it's the place to be....But I was there to see my brother Dan, his partner Alex, friends and Alex's Mum and Dad.
Hanna and I decided to go all out and get a room with aircon after almost perishing in the heat on the islands and this is where we spent most of our days. Or in the fridge style aircon of starbucks, enjoying an ice blend coffee to sooth our addiction.
The only time we ventured out was to have a stroll round on the beach...Not a good idea...All you do is get harassed by the bar staff that have a million deckchairs set up on the beach...Missy Missy you want a drink???
Or to meet Dan for dinner and to venture to the markets where I got a great price for a silver Buddha!!! Man can I barter!
Oh I also forgot...We did go, after much persuasion on my behalf, to the tattoo shop where I welcomed Hanna into the realm of the tattooed tarts association..
She had a gecko tattooed onto her ankle and he has affectionately been called Hin..(she really did want it I just gave her a little nudge to have a little confidence to do it..Honest!)

Sunday, May 21, 2006

Kho phangan to Hua Hin

We were on a boat...Off a boat ...On a boat...Off a boat...On a bus...Off a bus...On a bus...Off a bus...Then a long walk...All 3 hours later than expected..Rubber time again!!!

We are definitely over traveled!!

Note to self

Never argue!!!
Never take on a Thai taxi driver if your not prepared to defend yourself...
Lucky I am.
Hanna and I agreed on a price with a taxi driver and when He decided to only take us half way I decided he only deserved half the fair..And rightfully so!
Well he didn't agree with this thought and decided to shove and push me a little in hope that I would cough up the remaining money a simper away...
Not I said the fly...
I simply stood the full 159 cm of my height, mind you I was the same height as he, and said "Come on hit me then but I'll hit you back matey!!!" But maybe not so polite and probably 2 cm away from his face...
So there was a little more face off from each other before I picked out a 20 baht note and threw it on the floor..
This infuriated my little Thai friend, as they believe the ground is grubby, and he gave chase.
I just walked off calmly and ignored him and his little woman and they went away!!
So there you have it...
Only take on a Taxi driver if your prepared to fight!!

Kho Phangan

Whilst perched on a very small very hard seat on the boat to Kho Phangna, Hanna and I were accosted by a tour agent offering us a bungalow on a beautiful beach for only B200 a night (Au 8) Well we were very skeptical but also very bloody tiered and had no lick trying to contact the guest house we were recommended to stay at so...We decided to take a chance...
Off the boat and we were ushered onto the back of a Ute(reminds me of my childhood and a "to do" on my list of Asian things)
We arrived at our "slice of paradise" bungalow and we were definitely surprised...It was a slice of Paradise. Finally the place was as beautiful as the pictures! And the food at the restaurant was fantastic...Hanna and I are going to do a book on the Garlic bread of Asia and Sabai Bungalows has won the gong!!!
We were a little far from the beach Haad Rin where they hold the full moon party but that definitely had it's advantages and disadvantages.
Advantage:
We were away from "The Beautiful" people who just wanted to party from noon to night.
The likely hood of our bungalow being broken into was less
And we were away from the beautiful people....
Disadvantages:
We constantly had to deal with the Taxi drives which occasionally ended in firstly Cuffs over the agreed price!
And the Taxi drivers...
Hanna and I decided to hire a motorbike and tour the islands hot spots. This was taking our lives into our own hands and not for the crazy locals zooming past but the unfinished and practically suicidal roads. If the surface was finished than it was full of potentially legal pot holes. If the roa wasn't a finished surface than it was like going cross country and I'm surprised we didn't crash!!
We'll I've now done my defensive driving course if I ever want to get my motorbike license!
The night of the full moon started at a hill top restaurant watching the sun go down with a bunch of German boys. One of which Burnie, was very keep on Hanna and did everything in his power to persuade her to fall for him even tho he was a good 5 years younger and his maturity showed it. As for me I was having great pleasure in asking a very good looking devote Christian boy many annoying questions about his faith...What a waste of a fine looking boy!!
Than we all headed to the beach where we promptly lost the boys and did a few laps to see what was going on. The beach was full of people dancing to different music coming from different bars and drinking Sang Som ( Thai whisky) from Buckets. It was really good fun going from venue to venue and stopping off to watch the fire shows along the way. We were accosted by a Welsh boy and his mate from the UK and the 4 of us went up and down the beach having a hilarious time...Until we lost the Welsh guy and decided that was probably our cue to go home...Also it was almost sun up. Not too bad for two "oldies" who were just going to have a look! ( yes for backpackers we are old)
The next day it took us a bit to recover from the previous evening (even tho we didn't drink) so we decided to spend the day at a fantastic bakery watching all the tragic people walking past who we were sure felt worse than we did!!
So after that it was off to meet Dan and Alex in Hua Hin

Friday, May 19, 2006

The trip from Phi Phi to Kho Phangna

We decided to go to Kho Phangna on the other side of thailand to go to the famous Full Moon Party...

So at 8:30 our day started and this is how it went...

On a boat...off a boat...on a bus....off a bus...on a bus....off a bus...on a bus...off a bus...on a boat...off a boat...in the back of a ute...off the back of a ute....
A 9:30pm we are there..

Our trip that was meant to go for 9 hours took 13. In Thailand that's called "rubber time"

I am Over travelled!!

Koh Phi Phi

Well what is there to say but......Paradise.
The days were spent soaking up the sun on the clear white beaches and swimming in the clearest of clearest blue waters. Swimming with the fish.
And the evenings were spent at Carpe Diem Resturant relaxing by the water, eating good food and watching the fire show...
The nights were spent trying to sleep in our bungalow in the bloody tropical heat....
Paradise.......Oh what a life......

Sunday, May 07, 2006

A week with Mum

Finally after Mum and I recovered from our Air Asia induced jet lag we headed for the local market on Karon Beach in Phuket. I thought it best to get the shopping out of the way early so we had time to relax. And shop we did. A poor Fella at one of the stores was sure to be happy to see us go. We bartered until we could barter no more. Luckily it was all a bit of fun and it worked well for both of us...It even ended in a wrestling match over 10 baht!!
Each time we ventured down one particular street there was always a Taylor who had to grope us and tell us that he loved us, all in the aid of us getting outfits made in his shop...It got to the point where Mum and I crossed the street to avoid him and his so called affection....Or a sock in the mouth from me.
The next day Mum and I relaxed on the beach and low and behold..She swam!!! Usually my mother only swims in the waters of hell...It really has to be that hot!
We did a trip to James Bond Island and saw where they shot the film "The Man with the Golden Gun" Way before my time!! Then we went sea canning and went into caves openings so small you had to lie down on your back to get in..That was great fun...Than we went to Elephant riding and water buffalo riding....Yeah yeah I know what I've said about riding the elephants but it was for Mum's sake more so...
The following day we set out for a day trip to Phi Phi Island on a speed boat snorkeling trip. Mum decided to step on a Sea Mollusic the first stop...Which happened to be beautiful Mya Bay. Very painful for her especially[ when the tour guide decided to give it a good whack with a snorkel...Apparently to break up the poison. I think he was just being a little enthusiastic!
Well thankfully that was our only incident for the day and Mum actually was successful at snorkeling!! Yipee.
On her last day we hit the shops again to get some of those Originally not original not so legal but very cheap DVD's.....And then came the rain...It rained so hard and so much that the street back to our hotel was flooded and we....Mum , Hanna and myself had to wade waist deep through who knows what, back to our hotel..Nice... At one point we were actually worried Mum may not get her flight...But all worked out in the end. Mum is safely back home and Hanna and I are heading to Phi Phi today to rest on the beach for a few days...Hopefully without rain!!

Saturday, May 06, 2006

Flight 3075 to Phuket

I arrived at the Bangkok bus station at 6am in the morning and was constantly being harassed by taxi drivers. Nothing unusual for any Asian country. Finally I make it to the taxi meter station where you are pretty much guaranteed a taxi driver who will use a meter and not rip you off. After a crappy bus ride I was the lucky person to get the taxi driver who insisted not to use the meter and was going to charge me triple the usual fare. After much yelling and bashing on the dashboard he finally agreed to let me out of the taxi...Eventually I made it to my guesthouse!
In the evening I went to pick up my Mum from the BKK international airport which resembles Myer at a Christmas sale, and that's not when it's busy. I was starting to fret as the people were starting to filter out and there was no Mum but eventually (over an hour later) out she came.
We spent the next day touring around Bangkok looking at Wats and the medical museum, as well as giving the credit card a work out a the shops and markets. As exhausted as we were we had to get to the airport that night to catch our flight to Phuket..
Air Asia is Asia's equivalent to Virgin Airlines except the fact that your luck if you leave the ground at the time specified in your booking. Our flight 3075 was due to leave at 8.05 and arrive just after 11pm...Oh well to our joy we actually were delayed at least 2 hours and finally departed around 10:15. If you have have been to Asia than you will be aware at how fantastic they are at joining a queue and the stampede at the door was more like there was a serious bomb threat rather than an orderly attempt at boarding a plane.
I had a very impatient old bag trying to push me up the aisle whilst people were trying to get there luggage into the over head locker...A few stern words sorted her out.
A few moments later and we were air born..Thank God!! By this stage Mum and I were a little grumpy and very over tired! Actually delirious. We had an awful flight with really bad turbulence and Mum and I were convinced we were going to fall out of the sky!
But alas we arrived safely at some ridiculous time.
We piled into a Mini Bus and was absolutely thrilled to see our travel companion was the lovely old bag from the flight!! JoY!! As Murphy's law would have it we were the last to reach our hotel and about 1:30 in the morning, where he dumped us at the end of the street to find our own hotel...Nice...
It was luxury to actually be staying at a nice hotel and Mum and I were looking forward to a good sleep in...
We were woken at 9am to the sound of a jack hammer!!!